Why am I so obsessed with Barberton fried chicken, folks? I can’t explain it, beyond a general love of regional culinary oddities. But ever since reading about the northeast Ohio dish in Gastro Obscura, I’ve been on a quest to try all the restaurants that offer it, starting with the original, Belgrade Gardens.
And how we’re back for a second entry: Hopocan Gardens.
Quick primer for those who don’t know the style: Barberton, Ohio styles itself the “Fried Chicken Capital of the World” because of pohovana piletina, a type of fried chicken served by Serbian immigrants in the 1930s. Now known as “Barberton fried chicken,” it’s freshly butchered whole chickens brined, left overnight in an egg wash and breading, then fried in lard.
Hopocan was the second Barberton fried chicken restaurant to open, first serving in 1942. It sits on the western terminus of Hopocan Avenue, technically in neighboring Norton.
Stepping into the restaurant is getting a taste of local history. You’ll certainly feel like an outsider (but not unwelcome) in a place steeped with decades of tradition. It’s all right there: from the clearly long-time servers to wood-paneled walls, carpeted floors, and photos on the wall.
The expansive menu features their signature chicken but spins off into other favorites, like sandwiches, hot wings, fish, chicken paprikash (which gets double billing with the chicken on the sign out front).
Before you order, you’ll get some complimentary bread brought to the table.
The go-to order is the signature fried chicken, which you can order as white meat, dark meat, legs, thighs, breast, half chickens, you name it.
The chicken dinners you can pair with all manner of sides: fries, mashed potatoes with a chicken gravy, vinegary cole slaw, green beans, apple sauce. One of the house favorites is hot sauce, a tomato and rice stew that’s also served at Belgrade Gardens.
We last visited at dinner, and while the restaurant was quiet when we arrived, the dining room soon filled up, with a steady stream of to-go orders heading out the door as well.
As we were leaving, another customer spotted me taking photos of the signage and insisted on getting a picture of me by the chicken. We chatted a bit, and I learned that she and her husband grew up in the area. She said he loved Hopocan more, but that her family grew up going to Belgrade Gardens, so that was her preference.
If you’re ever passing through the Barberton area, I highly recommend detouring for lunch or dinner at one of these spots. It’s a wonderful bit of local flavor, and it’s hard to argue with a plate of fried chicken.
Hopocan Gardens
4396 W. Hopocan Ave. Ext
Norton, OH 44203
(330) 825-9923
Web: hopocangardens.com
FB: DeVore’s Hopocan Gardens
